With a well-marbled texture, this blue cheese uses traditional rennet – uncommon among Stiltons – producing a nuttier, biscuity edge to what can otherwise veer towards the metallic. The rough, pitted grey-orange rind needs daily brushing to keep mould and cheese mites from encroaching into the pate. And by introducing the blue at a slightly later stage (piercing the rind so that air may circulate within the curds and stimulate the growth of penicillium roqueforti mould) the curds get a little kick-start in maturing – encouraging rounder, more savoury flavours – before the veins impart that delightful spicy blue tang.

Colston Bassett Stilton