Smaller than a Brie de Melun but larger than a Coulommiers, this cheese has a velvety white rind and rusty brown ridges denoting its wrapping in bracken during the maturing stage. Topped with a decorative fern frond, this is a wonderful, full-flavoured cheese. The golden pate is creamy, with silky cauliflower and cabbage notes. Less pronounced than Camembert, but with melting edges that, with ample maturation in a humid cellar, overwhelm the flaky/fudgy centre, giving it an irresistibly supple, melting texture.